TECHNICAL NOTE · SENSORS & CONTROL

Door contact, PIR or both? Specifying wardrobe light switching

The sensor is a 3-euro part that decides whether a guest sees a beautifully lit wardrobe or a light that comes on at 3 a.m.

WEILUMEN engineering · 2026-10-20 · 3 min read

Wardrobe lighting fails in one of two ways: it does not come on when the door opens, or it comes on when nothing is happening. Both are switching problems, not lighting problems. Here is how the three common solutions behave in a real guest room.

The three switching options

MethodHow it worksStrengthWeakness
Mechanical door switchPlunger or roller pressed by the door edgeCheapest, no standby draw, obviousNeeds precise door gap; can stick
Magnetic reed / hallMagnet in the door, sensor in the carcassNo moving parts, invisible, reliableNeeds 3–5 mm alignment; retrofit is harder
PIR motionDetects movement inside the wardrobeNo door contact needed, works with sliding doorsFalse triggers from hanging clothes and heat

Most hotel projects end up with magnetic contact plus a short delay.

For sliding doors a door contact needs one sensor per leaf, or a single sensor on the leading leaf plus logic that treats either leaf as “open”. Sliding doors also make PIR attractive — and that is exactly where PIR disappoints, because a sliding panel crossing the sensor looks like motion.

Why PIR inside a wardrobe is difficult

A PIR detects a change in infrared energy across its window. Inside a wardrobe the scene is hot, close and reflective: dark clothes absorb, a pressed shirt moves, a heated wall behind the carcass radiates. The result is either a sensor that needs a large movement to trigger, or one that switches on when the room's air conditioning changes.

PIR is the right choice in open shelving, minibar niches, and under-plinth night lights — places with real human movement and no door. Inside a closed wardrobe it is a compromise.

Delay timing: the number nobody specifies

Set the off-delay to 30–60 seconds for wardrobes. Shorter and the light flickers off while a guest is deciding; longer and it stays on after the door closes, which is what hotel maintenance notices first. For drawers, 5–10 seconds is enough.

For night lights the logic is inverted: 2200K amber, 3–8 lm, and a delay long enough to walk back to bed — 60–120 seconds, or triggered by the bed-side switch instead of a sensor at all.

Battery or 24V?

Battery fittings avoid cable routing through a finished carcass, and for a retrofit they are the only practical answer. But a hotel is a maintenance environment: a 3×AAA sensor light that needs new cells every 12–18 months becomes a work order multiplied by 300 rooms.

For new-build, run 24V. One thin driver per cabinet bank in the plinth, a 2-core cable to each shelf, and no batteries for the life of the furniture. Where battery is unavoidable, specify a version with a low-battery indicator that the housekeeping app can see — not a subtle blink nobody notices.

Five details that decide whether it works

  1. Mount the contact 200–300 mm from the hinge, not at the door edge — small door sag then does not matter.
  2. Keep the sensor and the magnet on the same plane; a 2 mm step in the carcass is enough to lose the trigger.
  3. Separate the sensor circuit from the driver's mains side. A shared circuit makes the light flicker when the driver's inrush hits.
  4. Leave a service loop at every shelf, 150 mm minimum. Cables that are pulled tight fail at the connector.
  5. Label the driver with the room number at the plant. When a fitting fails in year three, nobody wants to remove a wardrobe to find out which circuit it is.

Specifier's checklist

  • Switching method per furniture type on the drawing (hinged / sliding / drawer / open shelf)
  • Off-delay specified: 30–60 s wardrobe, 5–10 s drawer, 60–120 s night light
  • Contact mounted 200–300 mm from the hinge, alignment tolerance stated
  • 24V preferred for new-build; battery only with low-battery indication
  • Driver labelled per room and serviceable from the plinth

Questions we get asked

Can one sensor serve two wardrobe sections?
Yes, if both doors are usually opened together and the cable can be routed between them. But a guest opening one side in the dark expects light on that side only — two sensors with separate circuits is the better guest experience.
Do I need a sensor on the wardrobe if there is a room key-card switch?
The key-card switch controls the room, not the wardrobe door. Without a local switch the wardrobe light stays on whenever the guest is in the room — which defeats the energy saving the key card was installed for.
What colour temperature for wardrobe interiors?
3000K with Ra ≥ 80 is the practical standard: it flatters clothes without making the interior look clinical. Some luxury brands use 2700K to match the room.
Will a magnetic sensor work through a 2 mm veneer?
A reed switch needs the magnet within roughly 8–10 mm and no ferrous material between them. A steel hinge plate or a metal carcass will shield it — test on a sample before committing.

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